batu caves
then (1914)
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now
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On the Padang, at Kuala Lumpur, behind the Selangor Club, is a wayside station (close to the Empire and F.M.S. hotels) at which stop all trains to the Batu Caves, and there are five trains in the day there and five back.
The run is a little over half-an-hour through pretty country on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur. The line was built to serve the railway workshops half-way to and the stone quarry near the caves. Looking to the front of the train after leaving Kent Station you find it running straight at the base of the huge limestone cliffs which have gleamed white in the distance most of the way. Leaving the station and following the road, take the first turn to the left and continue along a few steps until, again to the left, you find a path through the rubber plantations where, if it be early, you will pass coolies tapping the trees. This leads you to the steps for the caves, and a somewhat steep pull lands you under the outer arch of an 'antre vast'. Turn and look out at the view from the cave mouth whilst you recover breath, and then descend into the great outer hall. These caves are not inhabited and there are no temples in them, as there are in the Ipoh caves. The trivial graffiti of all races, nations and languages, disfiguring though they may be, have not availed to rob these caves of their native majesty. The green-blue metallic shades painted upon the rock by some lowly moss contrast with the pure white of the majestic marble hollowed out in smooth depressions by the age-long action of water. From the soaring top depend strange icicles in lime. The cave is duplicate. The second hall is roofless and open to the sky. Here you shall look up and high, high on the brim of this great white cup, see monkeys scrambling. Higher and higher they go, hand over hand, swarming up the ropes of the creepers' roots which hang over the dizzy edge, clambering over the rock cornices till they reach the dwarfed, ill-nourished bushes which nod into the air over the edge of the vortex where the swallow has made a nest. Returning, as you mount to the cave-mouth the ground rings hollow under foot and argues other unknown depths beneath. Half-way down the steps is a rough track to the right which leads to another cave inhabited by bats, white snakes, frogs, toads and a very vile smell. This cave den extends 887 yards into the bowels of the rock before ever you come to the bottom. It is dark and dirty walking and should only be attempted with a guide and lights, but the entrance at least may be visited. To see the caves takes about an hour, and unless you have a carriage or motor from Kuala Lumpur ready you must wait another couple of hours for the next train back. |
There is no station behind the Selangor Club anymore but Komuter trains to Batu Caves depart from KL Sentral.
The run these days takes 22 minutes and is through built up suburbs. Probably referring to the old railway workshops at Sentul. I don't know where Kent Station was. There is a Jalan Kent but there is no railway station there. There is a station called Batu Kentonmen on the way to Batu Caves but that is named after the military camp (cantonment). The new Batu Caves station is right next to the caves. There are no rubber trees here anymore. 
The steps have been improved but are still very steep. The view from the top of the steps is impressive.
Interesting that there were no temples in Batu Caves 100 years ago. Now it has become a major Hindu shrine with a giant statue devoted to Lord Muragan. Even in those days they had graffiti! 
The cave half-way down the steps is today known as the Dark Cave. You still need a guide to explore the Dark Cave. Regular guided tours are available. Trains from Batu Caves depart every 15 minutes so there is no need to wait a couple of hours anymore. |
You can find out more about Batu Caves on my Malaysia Traveller website.
